Aaron's Greenscape, Inc. - THE WAY IT SHOULD BE

The ability to take in nutrients efficiently depends on many factors, including soil composition. Most lawns need these, and most people don't realize the difference they can make.

SOIL TEST

We will take between 4-8 samples, mix and have tested in lab for pH, micro-nutrient levels and more.

LIME / SULFER

GYPSUM

Soil pH is very important to all plants. Lawns like it between 6.5 and 7.5. Lime or Sulfer is added to correct or maintain a proper soil pH. We apply at an amending rate (30-50 pounds per thousand square feet). Coupled with a core aeration, you will maximize the impact on your lawn. Lime especially helps lawns that are shady, have a lot of pine plants, high amounts of leaves or rooting plant material. With lime, color and health are enhanced by neutralizing many soil problems older lawns have. Most lawns that have been around 5 years or more will benefit.

Gypsum loosens hard-packed soils, increases nutrient availability from fertilizer treatments making soil more receptive, and helps plants get a better chance to expand their roots. It also gives your lawn vital nutrients like Calcium. If you have clay, this treatment will really help. We suggest you apply this after core aeration to enhance the ability of getting it into the soil. We apply at an amending rate (30-50 pounds per thousand square feet). Softening the soil will help lawns breath and root, making any lawn more thick and healthy.

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Clump of Tall Fescue

Tall Fescue is the taller, wide clumpy grass that is an eyesore in a finer grassed lawn. It is often mistaken for Crab Grass or Quack Grass by the homeowner. Tall Fescue is a perennial grass, which means it comes back every year and will spread out if not controlled. A product for this problem has recently become available, and we here at Aaron's are happy to provide the service.

We will spot treat the problem areas. Follow-up maintenance on your part will be necessary to continue to provide the optimal conditions needed for the best control results. A repeat application may be necessary after 60 days, at which point we can re-evaluate at your request. Depending on the amount of Tall Fescue killed out, an aeration and overseeding may be necessary to help thicken and fill in the areas.

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Every lawn has some type of fungus or insect eating at it every day. Some lawns can resist this more than others, and some lawns just need help. Most of the time, fungus and insects are active a month or more before we see damage. After we see it, we can contain the damage, but we cannot reverse the damage done to your lawn to identify and treat it. Stopping fungus and insects before they start is achieved by putting down preventatives. Even if you don't have a lot of turf problems, you can give your lawn the edge. If your lawn has any kind of insect or fungus damage year after year, this program can stop the damage before it starts.

Fungus Problem

FUNGUS PREVENTATIVE- Lawns that have problems with circles and spots caused by fungus year after year can be controlled. Lawns that have problems with diseases are treated three to four times every three to five weeks. With proper cultural practices including aeration, your lawn can improve.
Diseases controlled include: Anthracnose, Dollar Spot, Large Brown Patch, Pink Snow Mold, Summer Patch, Fusarium Blight, Necrotic Ring Spot, Striped Smut, and many more.

Grub

INSECT PREVENTATIVE- Our major concern is that we are seeing more and more grub problems in the area, and the only really effective way to control them is a preventative. This treatment is very affordable. We hope customers allow us to treat these problems correctly, leaving less lawn damage.
Insects controlled include: Grub Larvae, Japanese Beetle, Black Turfgrass Ataenius, Chafers, Green June Beetle, Asiatic Garden Beetle, Crane Fly Larva, Mole Crickets, Billbugs, Chinch Bugs, Cutworms, Earwigs, Sod Webworms, and more.

We suggest over-seeding or slit seeding a lawn if it is thin after years of use, after fungus and/or insect damage has occurred, or if it needs some help getting started. We only use high quality seed with the right mixture for shady and sunny areas. This seed is more resistant to insects, disease, acidic soil, and other common problems than the grass seed of yesterday. The best time is in the spring or fall when temperatures and rain are more favorable for germination.

Over-seeding-This is usually done after core aeration or raking. It will thicken and strengthen your existing lawn by giving it diversity to fill in where your lawn is having problems.

Slit Seeding-We use a machine that slits the ground with blades while simultaneously dropping the seed into the slits. Planting the seed at exactly the right depth gives a very high rate of germination.

Another Satisfied Customer

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